Travellers passing through to the rolling surf swells of Bali or the rugged coastal wilds of the Meru Betiri National Park usually place the Javanese city of Jember in the category of ‘transportation hub’. Granted, this sprawling industrial centre is no real looker, and it certainly lacks the rustic bamboo charm of the Nusa Tenggara, but linger just a while, and an earthy, endearing vibe will surely begin to issue from between its traffic-choked streets and bursting cocoa depots.

Start by casing out the heart of the city by trishaw, where one seriously avant-garde mosque betrays a modernism distinct from the usual tin-shack shops and ubiquitous street food vendors touting nasi gudeg and Tape. Then, be sure to arrange an excursion with your Jember tour guide to Kawah Ijen, its glowing turquoise waters belying its status as the largest acid lake in the world. Beautiful beaches abound by the city edges, with the black sands of Watu Ulo and coral reefs of Papuma the most popular amongst locals and visitors alike. There are coffee and tobacco plantations to visit too, which culminate with sampling of frothy brews of Javanese beans that are sure to tickle the taste buds!