Surrounded by the floating villages and jungle-topped islets of Yos Sudarso Bay, Jaya Pura is the gateway to the Indonesian state of Papua; one half of wild and untrodden New Guinea. The town was first converted into a modern centre by the colonial powers of the Dutch Indies, replacing a much older tribal trading outpost that connected with places across the Bismarck Sea. Taking the meaning of off-the-beaten-track to whole new and dizzying heights, this provincial hub is virtually never visited by tourists. That means it can be tricky to navigate a way in, but it also means the powdery stretches of well-named White Sands Beach and the local farmer's markets will be all but empty of fellow travellers. Jaya Pura offers a glimpse of the rural, lived-in side of Indonesia, where the noodle soups and satays on the roadside stalls are authentic and the wares at Abepura market cater to local needs. Jaya Pura tour guides can also offer further explorations through New Guinea, up into the wild forests and along beautiful Sentani Lake, perhaps.