Start this beautiful walk uphill with excellent views of the Ribeira off to the left. If the weather is clear, you can view the island of Fogo. As you continue upwards, the flora changes. You’ll see groups of pine trees, part of a continual reafforestation project in which the locals participate. It is a necessary programme because residents are always collecting firewood from the area (you may pass several people coming down the road carrying loads of wood on their heads; you may take their pictures only after taking their permission).

Then, you will be near one of the highest points on the island, Serra da Malagueta (1064m). There are spectacular views to the right and a view of the island of Maio; you may even be above the cloud cover, depending on the day. Watch the sides of the cliffs, though a misplaced step will send you hundreds of feet down.

You will descend to a settlement area with some enclosed animal dens and houses. Most residents here are very friendly, but it’s wise to respect their privacy and property.

Descend further to more houses, again staying along the lower ridge that overlooks the Ribeira. There are excellent views here: you can see the terracing of the agricultural areas and the isolated vila of Gongon below.

Continue to descend past some fantastic rock structures on the right, including a keyhole in one part of the ridge.

After several minutes, you will reach Hortelao.