Set over a patchwork of serene lakes and flowing waterways against a backdrop of scenic hills, the city of Hangzhou is a far cry from the other metropolitan centres that pepper the coast of the East China Sea. Instead of soaring skyscrapers and buzzing traffic lanes, incense-laden temples and mysterious Qing pagodas await; and rather than tooting car horns and hustle of business life, soothing melodies of Chinese zithers and the calming lapping of waves at West Lake abound.

Hangzhou tour guides direct visitors straight to the newly inscribed UNESCO sites that cluster around the banks of the West Lake Scenic Area here, ranging from the romanticised Broken Bridge, to the memorial monuments of King Qian. Then its off to the beating heart of the old town, where ancient timber houses cluster along the water’s edge, hanging lanterns sway between the cobbled lanes and ginkgo trees, and grand panoramas of the mythical lakes open up at Wushan Square and Wushan Hill. And there is yet more to explore, with acclaimed theatre performances over the moonlit lake, and less-trodden gems like the hiking trails off Beishan Road, the rock carvings of Fei Lai Feng and the courtyards of Lingyin Temple, also worth a visit throughout these ancient hills.