• Arrive at Paro airport at around 8.00 am on a beautifully crisp and sunny winter morning. Outside, we will meet Tshering and Jigme, our guide and driver for the next ten days.
• From Paro, it’s an hour’s drive to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. The drive is the first chance to see Bhutan’s gorgeous landscape, passing through gorgeous wide valleys parted by slow trickling rivers. Stray cats, dogs and cows watch the world go slowly by, and dried red chillies are piled up for sale next to each bend in the road.
• Arrive in Thimphu, one of the only cities in the world without traffic lights. Thimphu is a narrow city at the bottom of a deep green valley. With a population of around 100,000 people, it’s the largest city in Bhutan, and the number of construction sites suggests that it’s growing. 
• Our first stop in Thimphu is at the National Memorial Chorten, a grand memorial stupa built-in 1974 to honour Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, Bhutan’s third King. The white and gold tower burns bright in the strong morning sun and is one of Thimphu’s most prominent landmarks. The memorial’s interior is spread over three levels, each built around several colourful shrines elaborately decorated with bold wall paintings and imposing carved figures of Buddhist deities.
• Then, go for a short drive to Buddha Dordenma, a spectacular and colossal golden statue of Buddha that sits high in the hills over Thimphu. At almost 180 feet tall this is one of the largest statues of Buddha in the world. The Buddha is surrounded by a vast open terrace carved out of the side of the valley, and flanked by 37 equally dazzling dakinis, known as mothers of Buddha. Buddha Dordenma’s interior is fittingly ornate. On one side the walls are decorated with exquisite paintings that depict the life story of Buddha. On another, 20,000 twelve-inch statues of Buddha are encased in the walls. In the centre of the room is a 16-foot golden seated statue of Buddha with four faces surrounded by eight Bodhisattvas. The interior is still under construction, and once complete the whole structure will be home to 130,000 Buddha statues.
• After lunch, we’re taken for a stroll around the centre of Thimphu and to a farmer’s market. The market is filled with stalls stocked with mountains of powerful chillies, spices, incense powders, red rice and cubes of Bhutanese yak’s cheese. There’s also plenty of meat, though Tshering tells us that it’s all imported. Killing an animal for consumption is illegal in Bhutan, so there are no slaughterhouses in the country. All manner of herbs and spices are on sale at Thimphu’s farmer’s market.

• The second day in our Bhutan itinerary begins with an easy hike through the beautiful forests over Thimphu. It’s a two-hour round trip along a snowy forest path lined with fluttering prayer flags and wonderful views across the city, which sits at the bottom of the valley, smothered in winter morning mist and cloudless blue skies.
• After the hike, we will head to the nearby Motithang Takin Preserve to catch a glimpse of Bhutan’s national animal. Bhutanese takins are endangered in the wild and a large section of the forest has been turned into an enclosure. Resembling a cross between a cow and a goat, according to Bhutanese legend, the takin was the creation of Drukpa Kunley. Drukpa Kunley was a 15th-century Buddhist monk known as the Divine Madman who we’ll later discover looms large over Bhutanese history.
• Enjoy local treats and spot takin at Motithang Takin Preserve.
• Back in the centre of Thimphu, we will visit Simply Bhutan, a small heritage museum that details the history and tradition behind many customs unique to Bhutan. There’s also a spot of traditional Bhutanese lunch provided, consisting of staples such as red rice, buckwheat pancakes, and one of Bhutan’s most famous dishes, ema datshi, also known as chilli cheese.

• The third day is one of the busiest of our Bhutan itinerary. From Thimphu, it’s a long and bumpy drive west to Punakha. On the edge of Thimphu is Dochula Pass, where 108 stone stupas stand on a small elevated circular hill in the centre of the road on the peak of the mountain road. The memorial stones were built in 2004 to honour the Bhutanese soldiers who died in a conflict with Indian insurgents the previous year. 
• Across from Dochula Pass are some of the clearest views of the Bhutanese stretch of the Himalayas, though they can often be covered by clouds. Amongst them is Gangkar Puensum, probably the tallest unclimbed mountain in the world. Mountaineering is illegal in Bhutan, partly in the belief that the mountains are home to protective deities, but also to prevent them from becoming filled with the same kind of junk that plagues Mount Everest.
• See traditional Bhutanese homes, which appear to float over the landscape, dotted around the mountainsides for as far as the eye can see. Stray dogs sleep at the side of the road, and at one point a solitary monkey watches on as we rumble past.
• The journey to Punakha is broken up by Chimi Lhakhang, a small monastery that dates from the 15th century. In more recent times it has also become known as the Phallus Temple. Chimi Lhakhang is famously associated with Drukpa Kunley, the Divine Madman credited with the creation of the takin. A Buddhist monk at Chimi Lhakhang monastery and phallus symbols painted on a building in Bhutan. Drukpa Kunley is also famous for his unorthodox Buddhist methods, including his belief that achieving spiritual enlightenment could be aided by voracious sex life. According to the legend, Drukpa Kunley defeated an evil demon where Chimi Lhakhang now stands by subduing it with his phallus. Phallus paintings and statues have adorned houses and buildings all over Bhutan ever since, in the belief that they will help keep evil deities at bay. A pilgrimage to Chimi Lhakhang is also said to be able to help women who are struggling to conceive. Inside the small temple is an album of photos of children sent by numerous women who have given birth after visiting Chimi Lhakhang.
• From Sopsokha, it’s a short drive north to Punakha Dzong, majestically located at the bottom of a valley in front of the sparkling crystal clear and fish-filled waters of the Mo Chhu river. Bhutan’s second oldest and second-largest fortress. Punakha Dzong is immense. A huge banyan tree sits in the central courtyard in front of a magnificent central tower. The courtyard is flanked by monastic living quarters and local administrative offices, featuring elaborately decorated balconies adorned with traditional Bhutanese architectural details. There’s a palpable sense of history throughout Punakha Dzong. It’s easy to see why Punakha Dzong was chosen as the setting for the royal wedding between the current King and Queen of Bhutan in 2011.

• There’s another early start on day four of our Bhutan tour in order to tackle the 200-kilometre drive from Punakha to Bumthang, where we’ll spend the next three nights. Once again, the sensational scenery makes the entire journey utterly captivating. 
• Bobbling along at over 2000 metres above sea level, the views are more like those that you’d expect to see from a plane window, eye level with huge cloud formations and overlooking endless mountain ranges covered with thick, deep forests. A scenic tea stop and the Trongsa valley in central Bhutan.
• Due to the long journey, there’s only one stop on today’s agenda, which is Trongsa Dzong, the largest fortress in Bhutan. This gigantic fortress is sprawled across the enormous green valley below. At the entrance, we’re met by a group of jittery monkeys, playfully leaping around the rooftops of the buildings below the fortress. Trongsa Dzong is a warren of corridors that lead to a series of interconnected courtyards. Framed by grand walkways and staircases that shoot off in every direction, the main courtyard has a wonderful view of the lush valley that spreads below as far as the eye can see. The inner temple is another fantastic expression of colourful devotion, dominated by a towering golden statue of Buddha. Bright hanging fabrics, thick golden columns and the customary bold Buddhist wall paintings fill the temple’s interior. There’s still another couple of hours to go until we reach Jakar, the town more commonly known as Bumthang, our base for the next three days. At the heart of central Bhutan, Bumthang could easily be mistaken for the lush alpine hills of Switzerland. The crunchy mountain terrain gives way to beautiful fresh green valleys and majestic pine forests.

• We’re at the halfway point in our 10-day Bhutan itinerary, which begins with a short drive to Kurjey Lhakhang, a sacred Buddhist site made up of three temples. 
• The earliest temple is devoted to Guru Rinpoche, a Buddhist master from the 8th century. The small, dark, atmospheric temple is built around a cave where it’s believed Guru Rinpoche left a back print in the rocks whilst meditating. The larger neighbouring temple features another huge central Buddha statue, surrounded by statues of fourteen golden arhats embedded high into the typically ornate walls.  
• A few minutes away is Jambey Lhakhang, which is believed to be one of 108 temples built across Bhutan and Tibet in one day in 659. The interior corridors that surround the inner temple are decorated with ancient original paintings of Buddhist tales and deities, still vibrant despite their age.
• Later, we will drive through the town to reach Jakar Dzong, another imposing fortress that stands over Bumthang and the whole valley below. With a narrow courtyard, Jakar Dzong feels claustrophobic compared to other fortresses; chaperoned on our tour by a small family of cats, the fortresses’ old balconies and thick stone staircases resemble a medieval European castle.
• After lunch, we will drive a little further west to another sacred site, the Burning Lake, a tiny freshwater lake between two rivers around thirty minutes from Bumthang. Legend states that a Buddhist monk believed that sacred texts and treasures were buried in the lake many centuries ago. The monk jumped into the lake holding a burning butter lamp and descended underwater. He returned with a chest of treasure, religious scrolls and with the butter lamp still alight.

• The next morning, we will begin the long journey back towards western Bhutan, spending one night in the Phobjikha Valley, around halfway between Bumthang and Thimphu. The long journey means that there are only a couple of stops in the day’s itinerary. 
• Next, proceed to Gangteng Monastery and the Black Necked Crane Centre. The first is Gangteng Monastery, a small monastery that sits at the top of a small picturesque village at the tip of a hill.
• We will continue along the gentle descent to the beautiful green valley below. At the bottom is the Black Necked Crane Centre, facing onto a beautiful expanse of protected land that the endangered birds migrate to each Autumn, making the journey over the Himalayas from Tibet.

• We will start early on day eight to continue the remainder of the long journey back to Paro. At the top of the valley are a group of dedicated yak herders, fresh from camping overnight in temperatures well below 0 degrees. 
• At the peak of the valley road, next to a stupa festooned with prayer flags, are sensational views of the Himalayan Mountains, with their jagged snowy peaks bathed in glorious sunshine.
• A yak in Phobjikha Valley; a stupa en route; prayer flags and the Himalayas.
• After a late lunch, we will visit Paro Museum followed by Paro Fortress. Paro Museum is relatively small and documents much of what makes Bhutan unique. 
• The highlight of the Paro Museum is the traditional masks worn during various masked dance festivals across Bhutan throughout the year. Elsewhere there are displays on Bhutan’s diverse wildlife and fauna, as well as various archaeological artifacts. Wedged into the hillside above the town Paro Fortress dominates the entire valley, and from inside there are stunning views across Paro and far beyond. Far grander than Jakar Dzong, Paro Fortress is based around a domineering central tower in the middle of a colourful courtyard. Decorative monastic and administrative offices frame the outer edge of the courtyard, whilst inside the fortresses’ temple are more beautiful wall paintings, protected behind hanging screens and glass.

• The final full day of our Bhutan itinerary is reserved for its most iconic landmark, the Tiger’s Nest Monastery. The Tiger’s Nest Monastery, also known as Paro Taktsang, seems to levitate high above the Paro valley. 
• As with Kurjey Lhakhang temple in Bumthang, the Tiger’s Nest Monastery was built around a cave where the sacred Guru Rinpoche is believed to have meditated in the 9th century.
• According to the legend, the guru flew to the caves on the back of a tigress, which is how the monastery gets its name. The temple is so sacred that the Bhutanese believe that visiting the Tiger’s Nest Monastery is equal to visiting 1000 other temples. 
• The famous view of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery suddenly appears at the end of a path, and that first sight of one of the world’s most recognisable landmarks is something never to forget. The monastery consists of several small temples dedicated to Buddha and to Guru Rinpoche, the first of which was built in 1692. Additional temples have been added over the centuries, and the whole site was extensively repaired following a devastating fire in 1998. The cliff face is clearly visible inside several of the temples, and a small section cut from the floor in one shows a dagger-like incision into the rocks beneath the temple. The hike to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery and back to the base took around seven hours in total, including an hour spent inside the monastery. 
• We will spend our final night with Tshering and Jigme, the perfect hosts during our ten days in Bhutan, with a traditional Bhutanese meal in Paro. 

• The last day in Bhutan is for recuperation following the previous day’s arduous trek. Later, we will bid farewell to our guide and driver, our wonderful companions. 
• In the early afternoon, depart from Paro’s beautiful airport.

Trip ends.