Legend has it that the mythical Odysseus sailed this way once, encountering the lethargic Lotus-eaters, and it’s easy to see why this island, the largest off the coast of North Africa, could inspire such fantasy. Its beaches, pearly white, rippled with shimmering shells and lapped by the crystalline waters of the Med, are framed by clusters of date palms. Its towns, no less whitewashed than the sands, are iridescent under the sun, while the dusty backcountry is decorated with the footsteps of camels and oases and glimmering, shifting dunes. Today, the place’s mystery is somewhat offset by the presence of countless resort hotels, each lining the shore with an endless array of infinity pools and tanning terraces. However, look to the right places with the help of a Djerba tour guide, and the authentic experiences of spots like Houmt Souk, awash with colourful jewellery and aromatic spices, Guellala, home to ancient pots aplenty, Djerbajood, a hidden gem of contemporary art, and Ras Rmel, a land of flamingos and swashbucklers alike, are back on the menu!