Meeting Point at Sant'Angelo Vaporetto Stop: Stunning View of the Brunetti Family Terrace
Our culinary journey begins at the Sant'Angelo Vaporetto stop, where we enjoy a stunning view of the famous terrace of the Brunetti family. This is the place where the family often hosts grand dinners and aperitifs with a breathtaking view of the Grand Canal. As we take in the scenery, we'll step into the world of Commissario Brunetti, exploring both the culinary delights of Venice and the mysteries that unfold in Donna Leon’s captivating stories.
A Rosticceria every Venetian knows
Next, we stop at a historic "rosticceria," a beloved spot serving the workers of San Marco since the 1930s. This no-frills eatery features an ultramarine canteen counter downstairs. Commissario Brunetti himself knows this place well, often stopping for a quick lunch between investigations. It’s a spot where locals have gathered for decades to enjoy simple, delicious food—because, after all, no one said it was going to be healthy! Here, we’ll savor a classic fried Mozzarella in Carrozza or a traditional tramezzino, paired with a glass of red wine (ombra), just as the Venetians do.
Crossing the Famous Rialto Bridge to the Fish Market
Next, we’ll cross the most famous bridge in Venice, the Rialto Bridge, spanning the Grand Canal. The current stone bridge was built in the 16th century to replace an earlier wooden drawbridge. Our destination is the Rialto market, Venice’s historic heart of commerce. The fish market here is noisy, raw, and authentic, brimming with true Venetian life. Fish is artfully arranged on stalls covered with deep layers of crushed ice, seagulls roam among the fishmongers calling out today’s catch, and locals browse the two halls of the Pescheria, as Venetians have done for the last 800 years! It’s the perfect place to savor some freshly fried fish, paired with a glass of prosecco, just as Venetians like Sergeant Vianello or Officer Alvise would do.
A Taste of Cicchetti at a Traditional Bacaro
It’s time to indulge in some mouthwatering cicchetti, local Venetian snacks or side dishes, typically served in traditional bàcari (cicchetti bars or osterias). Typical cicchetti include tiny sandwiches, plates of olives or other vegetables, halved hard-boiled eggs, and small servings of seafood, meat, and vegetable combinations laid on top of slices of bread or polenta. These are often served in very small portions, similar to Spanish tapas. You can even make a meal of cicchetti by ordering multiple plates! While not a part of home cooking, the real charm of cicchetti lies in how, when, and where they are eaten: with fingers and toothpicks, usually standing up at the counter, surrounded by the lively atmosphere of the bacari, osterie, and bars where they are displayed all day long.
Even Commissario Brunetti enjoys a quick meal of cicchetti when he knows that Paola won’t be cooking for him because she’s too busy. It’s his go-to choice when he’s on the move but still wants a satisfying bite.
Dulcis in fundo
To continue in sweetness, we’ll visit a historic Venetian pasticceria where we’ll enjoy a coffee and taste some freshly made pastries, just as the sweet-toothed Sergeant Vianello would. This charming pastry shop has been serving Venetians for generations, and the air is always filled with the irresistible scent of butter, sugar, and fresh dough. From bussolai (Venetian cookies) to creamy crostata or delicate fritole, this is the perfect spot to indulge in a little treat, savoring the local flavors that have been passed down through centuries. Venetians know that there's no better way to end a meal—or a day—than with something sweet, and Vianello, with his love for good food, would surely agree!
A Final Amaro: A Historic Trattoria in Dorsoduro
To conclude our culinary journey, we’ll enjoy a local amaro in a historic trattoria in the Dorsoduro district, a place frequented by Commissario Brunetti himself. As we sip the bitter-sweet herbal liqueur, we’ll take in the view of the famous terrace of the Questura, where Brunetti, Elettra, and Vice-Questore Patta have often paused to reflect on their cases. This is a perfect way to wrap up our tour, savoring the essence of Venice, its flavors, and its mysteries, just as the characters of Donna Leon’s stories might do after a long day of investigation
Tour Variations: Customizable Experience
Please note that the stops on the tour can vary. The shared small group tour is based on the German TV adaptation of Donna Leon’s novels, while the private German tour may include different stops depending on your preferences. The private English tour, on the other hand, is based on the novels and therefore includes different locations.
