Sur, with its glimmering whitewashed mosques and cottages, can be found hugging a wide bay on the dusty north coast of the Ash Sharqiyah Governate. It's a sleepy, salt-infused place that's got one foot firmly in the Arabian Sea and another clutching the hardy Hajar Mountains that rise to its back.

Glimpses of vintage dhow boats can still be had around the arced corniche of Sur, where a museum also chronicles the long centuries of shipbuilding in this onetime trading outpost that had links across to India. Wandering the old town is a pleasure, what with whittled door frames and hidden courtyards fitted neatly between the adobe cottages. Then comes the series of aged forts that stud the hills on the outskirts (Sinaysla is the largest and best-preserved) and the historic ship docks where traditional Omani bows are still wrought.

Just two hours from Muscat, Sur has also long been a popular escape from the city. It's sandwiched by secluded beaches, which surely hit their zenith with the Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve. Sur tour guides can help you catch sight of rare green turtles during the main nesting seasons there.