In a puff of (world-class) cigar smoke and a haze of clouds courtesy high mountains, emerges the small town of Esteli on the Nicaraguan tourism scene. Proud and political, boisterous and rustic, there are many facets to this chameleon of a coffee-growing hub. For starters, it was – and still is – one of the powerhouses of the Sandinista movement, which has had more than a hand in forging the modern socialist state of Nicaragua. It's also a living, breathing, working farmer town, which is frequented by regional markets on the weekend, and figures as the go-to place for tobacco and veg growers to get their supplies. More recently, Esteli has incubated an ecotourist community, which has seen international travelers flock to its guesthouses and jungle lodges to learn Central American Spanish, devour organic produce, and do yoga. Esteli tour guides can also be engaged for more outdoorsy pursuits, ranging from trips to the orchid gardens and growing cooperatives of Miraflor, to the waterfalls of the Tisey reserve.