Sloping down the sides of the Shreenagar Hills with a cool climate and breathtaking views, the little – and often overlooked old Newar town of Tansen might just be the taste of rural, rustic Nepal that you've been searching for. It's not too far from the Indian border but seems a world away from the terai plain; a sort of stepping stone between the lowlands and the icy Himalayas.

This is a bustling market town, which lays claim to some of the oldest coffee plantations in the country. You can taste and haggle your way through the beans and brews at the bustling Tansen Bazaar, where it's also possible to see the colourful topis and textiles that the locals have been handcrafting for centuries. 

There are temples and palaces that Tansen tour guide will lead you to as well. The beautiful 19th-cenutry Amar Narayan Temple rises in a trio of tiers, all carved in wood and whittled out to show intriguing religious murals. Then comes the glowing red faces of Tansen Durbar, once the target of Maoist rebels and now home to the local museum.