Clad in moss and lichen and sprawling vines, the ruins of Ek Balam are another great reminder of the deep histories and fascinating cultures that have coalesced around this section of the Mexican Yucatan. They rise from heavily excavated grounds just north of the charming Spanish-flavoured city of Valladolid, a cluster of 45 stone-built buildings encased in concentric circles of walls with battlements engraved with formidable serpent heads and mysterious hieroglyphs to keep out the would-be invaders. Today, Ek Balam tour guides can be seen hopping between the various structures here, climbing to the top of the mighty Acropolis at the site’s heart, and leading the way into the striking entranceways to the great El Trono tomb, where the thoroughly unpronounceable monarch Ukit Kan Le'k Tok lays buried beneath intricately carved monoliths. Lesser known that its more famous neighbouring ruins, travellers can take advantage of the peace and quiet to explore at leisure; interesting curved palace complexes to spy out, a large Ball court dating from the mid 9^th century and endless stele depicting hunting scenes, deities, kings, battles et al. Remember to carry your hat and repellent spray, along with swimwear for a dip at the Cenote nearby.