Between the urban sprawl of New Kingston and the throbbing heart of the historic downtown, this energetic island capital thrums to the fruity tunes of steel drums and the nostalgic offbeats of Bob Marley reggae. And, it’s all backed up by the aromas of Jamaican jerky and fried saltfish, washed down with a hefty dose of local Appleton Rum or the ubiquitous Red Stripe beer.

The action of the old town focuses on the Parade, where rickety buses rumble their way past corrugated rum shacks. Here, visitors will also find the fantastic National Gallery and a wealth of historic townhouses. And then why not quiz your Kingston tour guide about the legendary pirate haunts of old Port Royal — the onetime stomping grounds of Henry Morgan and company — or the crumbling remnants of the old colonial forts?

When you’re done wandering the shabby-chic streets of the old centre, head out to New Kingston for a glimpse of this island’s booming modernism. Here, new hotel complexes rub shoulders with celebrated institutions, and die-hard pilgrims on the reggae trail can seek out some of the best exhibitions on Bob Marley in the world.