Saddled elegantly atop the fluid hills of the untrodden region of Marche, the ancient town of Macerata does well to fuse the rustic traditionalism of provincial life with a dash of the energetic Adriatic Riviera. In the summer, its cobblestone squares burst with sun-kissed day-trippers from the coast, various trattorias hum with Italian chatter, and the aromas of smoked sausages, olive oil and creamy pasta sauces (a trademark of this northern region) waft between the Renaissance walkways that line the Piazza della Liberta at the city’s heart. And before the season is out, thousands descend on Macerata for the Sferisterio Opera Festival, all eager for a cultural epiphany courtesy of Verdi or Don Giovanni, while a great many others enlist the help of a Macerata tour guide to discover the ancient Roman ruins of nearby Helvia Recina. During the colder months of the year, studious Italians return to read courses at the town’s university (which is one of the oldest on the globe!), bringing a youthful vibrancy to the wine bars and cafes that pepper the tight-knit streets around the great Cathedral and the exquisite Palazzo Buonaccorsi.