The Batang Hari River squiggles through the jungles of eastern Sumatra before it reaches the town of Jambi. There, the provincial capital hugs both sides of its banks. To the north, low-key streets of batik stalls and temples form a row along the water. To the south, lively food markets come out at night, and the locals mingle between clusters of small boats, or share platters of bakso and grilled corn in the Taman Tanggo Rajo parklands. Jambi tour guides however point out that the real draws of this backwater town lurk outside. Some 30 kilometers to the east the leftovers of the great Melayu Kingdom loom up between myrtles and sandalwoods. Known as the Muaro Jambi Temple Compounds, the site contains a whopping eight excavated religious compounds, all raised in redbrick and adorned with just simple linear carvings dating from as early as the 11^th century. For the more intrepid, hikes up the volcanic peaks of Mt Kerinci, the highest of its kind in Indonesia promises a good challenge and great views.