There’s no denying that Gwalior’s major pull is the marvellous and ancient fort that rises high in bulwarks of sandstone and beige and ochre above the centre of the city. Built in the 8^th century, it was famously eulogised by the Mughal king Babar, who must have stood in awe of its elaborate cornices, carved lintels and heavily adorned apses. It’s best to head to the fort in the company of a qualified Gwalior tour guide to help reveal the cultural impulses behind the wealth of Jain sculptures, temples dedicated to the prominent Hindu gods, the famed Man Mandir palace and all of the other treasures within. The Jai Vilas palace, the residential palace turned museum of the incumbent Scindia dynasty in Gwalior reveals a lovely collection antiques too, the most notable being its chandelier collection. Sights apart, Indian classical music lovers throng to the city to participate in the Tansen Music festival held every year in honour of one of the greatest musicians in Indian history. There is yet more; the monolithic Jain temples of Gopachal Parvat, the revered sikh temple of Datta Bandi Choodh, a day trip to the Tigra Dam and around, and lively marketplaces where a kaleidoscope of artisan crafts, chanderi saris, and spicy street foods of samosas and kachoris await.