Dashes of red-tiled roofs smudge their way through the green valleys around Uzice's centre, marking the point where this small city fades into the verdant hills of Zlatibor. An ancient place that's been inhabited by everyone from Illyrian tribes to Romans to Byzantine imperialists over the centuries, it was a hotbed of Yugoslav Partisan resistance to the Nazi war machine in the 1930s. In fact, Uzice's success in the postwar period, and all the shiny new apartment blocks and institutions that brought with it, was largely down to the patronage of Josip Broz Tito. Take the National Museum of Uzice, where the cultural treasures of the region are chronicled in a converted bank. Or, look to the still-operating Uzice Hydroelectric Power Plant from 1900; enough to make Serbia's own Nikola Telsa uber-proud. Away from the main streets, an easy walk up to Stari Grad reveals the ruins of an old fortress and city views. It's also possible to explore the Balkan wilds with your Uzice tour guide by trekking the winding trails of Tara National Park, leading up to Mokra Gora and its concomitant attractions.