Hidden behind the rising ridges of the Shan Hills, deep in the northeastern wilds of Myanmar sits Hsipaw, a town characterized by tradition and rustic charm. Only recently it has come onto the radar of tourists, many enticed by the promise of more rugged trekking opportunities than those around Inle Lake and Kalaw. On that count, Hsipaw tour guides and their wealth of possible hikes out to the tea fields around Namhsan (be wary of warnings of some insurgent guerrillas here) and the winding Dokhtawady River certainly don't disappoint. However, there is more to this place than just trails primed for the walking boots. The town was once the royal capital of the Shan kings and queens; a history that can be unraveled further at the Shan Palace on the north side of the centre. There are also breathtaking lookout points of Hsipaw's misty valley from atop Five Buddha Hill, a buzzing market that's packed with tribal trinkets, and a fascinating medley of Hindu effigies and Buddhist pagodas at the Bawgyo Paya temple site nearby.