Huehuetenango sits up on the highland ridges of the Cuchumatanes Mountains, where the Guatemalan valley temperatures range from subtropical in the lowland reaches to sub-zero on the wind-blasted passes. It's more than likely that you will be coming here as part of a trip up or down the Pan-American Highway before hitting the Mexican border to the west. The good news is that Huehue (as it is called by its locals) is used to such fly-in visits, and has a great clutch of hotels and restaurants to serve. However, opt to linger a couple of days and you might just find some things worthy of the pitstop. Unquestionably the top of the list for Huehuetenango tour guides is the restored ruined city of Zaculeu. Once the Mayan capital, it's now a series of stepped pyramids and whitewashed temples beneath the Cuchumatanes. There are also great views of the mist-topped peaks of Cerro Chemal and some of the world’s best coffees to buy.