Hailed by some as a masterwork of urban planning, knocked by others as a recipe for metropolitan chaos and traffic jams, La Plata lingers on the peripheries of Buenos Aires in a blueprint of perpendicular streets and diagonally criss-crossing boulevards. It was designed from the ground up by the famous 19^th century architect, Pedro Benoit, and today its parallel roadways pulse with all the energy of students, tradesmen and ex-pats alike. The grand Natural History Museum draws the biggest crowds, showcasing the aged bones of Jurassic beasts and enthralling journeys through the pre-Columbian past of South America. Nearby, the city’s various parks are caressed by the mellifluous chatter of the Spanish tongue, the occasional tango bar bursts with life and La Plata tour guides help travellers unravel the gothic secrets of the city cathedral on Plaza Moreno. Come evening, and the Teatro Argentino puts up opera performances and concerts alike, while in the clubs around the city centre the youth glug beers to the backing track of Argentinian indie rock (one of this town’s more modern exports).