Peru · Hiking

1-Day Nevado Mateo Climb from Huaraz with Glacier Ascent

1 Day Round trip from Huaraz Moderate pace

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The journey

Trip highlights

01 Climb one of the amazing ice-capped peaks of the famous Cordillera Blanca
02 Experience the ascent of Nevado Mateo, an ideal first climbing challenge at 5,150 meters
03 Enjoy spectacular views of the Andes and the Cordillera Blanca range
04 Visit the Cancará Lagoon area and cross the Punta Olímpica tunnel

Ascend the breathtaking Nevado Mateo at 5,150 meters, an ideal peak for first-time climbers in the Cordillera Blanca. Hike through rugged moraine landscapes before gearing up with crampons for the glacier climb to the summit. Admire panoramic views of Contrahiervas and the stunning Cancará lagoons, then descend along the same route and cross the spectacular Punta Olímpica tunnel. This full-day experience is a rewarding introduction to high-altitude mountaineering in the Huascarán region.

From the summit, take time to contemplate the views of the snow-capped Contrahiervas and the small and large Cancará lagoons.

From the itinerary

At a glance

What this trip includes

Duration 1 Day

Tour type Shared

Activity level Moderate

Accommodation Not included

Transport Included

Wheelchair access No

Cities Huaraz, Carhuaz, Huascarán National Park

Languages English, Spanish

Day by day

The itinerary

Day 01

Climb Nevado Mateo from Huaraz

03:00 am: Pick up from your hotel and travel by vehicle northeast of Huaraz for about 2 and a half hours. The route enters through the town of Carhuaz, passes through Shilla and Huascarán National Park, and continues to Punta Olímpica, where the vehicle will park.
06:00 hrs: Begin the walk along the moraine for approximately 1 hour until reaching the base of the glacier. There, put on the crampons, and the guide will rope everyone up to begin the climb to the summit, which takes approximately 1 hour.
From the summit, take time to contemplate the views of the snow-capped Contrahiervas and the small and large Cancará lagoons.
Begin the descent along the same route until reaching the vehicle, then return to Huaraz.
3:30 p.m.: Arrival in Huaraz.

Where this trip takes you

Nevado Mateo, Cancará lagoons, Punta Olímpica tunnel

The route

Where you'll travel

Tour route map — Round trip from Huaraz 3 cities · 1 Day

The fine print

Trip details

What's Included

Certified high mountain guide with experience
Tourist transportation with permit to Huascarán National Park
Mountain equipment: helmet, harness, ice axe, crampons, La Sportiva boots and other brands, and gloves
A hot drink before starting the climb to Nevado Mateo: hot drink thermos
A picnic: a ham and cheese triple sandwich, plus mineral water or soda

What's Not Included

International round-trip flights to Lima, Peru
Entrance fees to Huascarán National Park
Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different arrival/departure times
Exit tax at the airport in Lima
Travel accident and health insurance
Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
Personal expenses
Acclimatization tour
Transfer from the hotel to the airport and bus station
Domestic flight airline ticket LC-Peru
Hotel Casa Andina, 2 nights in Lima
Hotel San Sebastián, 4 nights in Huaraz
Pick up at the airport in Lima to the hotel
Personal equipment (such as boots, ice axe, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, GORE-TEX, etc.)
Tips for the local team

What to bring

Equipment Trekking

Hiking backpack for trekking, 50 to 60 liters
Light gloves for hiking or optional waterproof mittens
Medium-weight socks
Sleeping bag (-15º to 20ºC)
Small daypack for one-day hiking, 30 liters
Weather-appropriate clothing (think moisture-wicking and layers)
Hiking boots or shoes
Medium-weight parka with fiber fill or down
Rain poncho or rain gear
Long-sleeved shirts
Fleece or wool sweater and/or trousers
Lightweight pants
Cotton short-sleeved shirts or T-shirts
Water bottle for hiking or trekking
Strong waterproof duffel bag
Flashlight with spare batteries and bulb
Towel for personal hygiene for each participant
First-aid kit
Regular and long underwear
Knife or multi-tool
Light cap and wool hat
Sunglasses with UV certification, sun block, and lip protection
The rest of the essential list as appropriate for your hike
Grooming and personal hygiene kit
One hiking buff per person

Equipment Mountain

Locking carabiners, recommended per person
We recommend 2 ice screws for each client
1 daisy chain (life line) per person
2 technical ice axes per person; we recommend the GRIVEL company
1 ATC descender (rappel); this is very necessary for technical mountains
2 cords for prusik, very important (size cord 6 mm x 10 m long)
Good gloves for expeditions over 6000 meters
Harness for climbing
Sleeping pad / mattress; we recommend an air or inflatable mattress
Crampons; we recommend the GRIVEL company
Walking sticks - trekking poles (optional), a pair per person; we recommend the GRIVEL company
Down jacket for expedition
Very important to have personal clothing such as pants and jacket with GOROTEX certification
First-aid kit for high mountains, because we as guides cannot medicate clients
Backpack capacity 60 liters; it is better to have a bigger backpack to go comfortably to the high camps, because here you have to carry all your personal things
Gaiters or leggings; modern boots already have them built in, but it is better to have an extra pair

Know before you go

Dressing appropriately for the mountains can make the difference between a pleasant trip and a really uncomfortable one. Clothing must provide the right degree of warmth, allow perspiration, and be well ventilated. Preferably, cotton clothing should be avoided, as in humid conditions it absorbs body heat.

In general, weather conditions in the Andes of South America can vary from day to day and even throughout the day. Therefore, clothing must be versatile.

Please do not hesitate to contact us with any questions you may have regarding the necessary equipment.

It is an easily accessible mountain, very popular among people who visit Huaraz. It is perfect for beginners and good for acclimatization before climbing high mountains. The Mateo summit has beautiful views of the highest mountains in Peru, such as Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Ulta, Contrahierbas, and other peaks.

NOTE:

Special offer: If you are planning to travel in a group of more than 4 participants, we have a special offer.
For tour operators: If you are a tour operator, official tourism guide, official trekking guide, high mountain guide, or manage some groups, we have a special offer. For more information, contact us.

Very important information:

Spaces available for tomorrow: We have departures every day at 3:00 am.
It is very important to test the technical mountain equipment a day before, such as mountain boots, harness, crampons, ice axe, and helmet. It is necessary to make an appointment to come to our office.
You cannot participate in this trip without first testing the technical mountain equipment.
Not included: GOROTEX mountain pants, GOROTEX jacket, down jacket for the cold, hat, gloves, sunglasses preferably with UV protection, sun blocker, first aid kit, etc.
Not recommended for people who suffer from vertigo.

Highlights of the Cordillera Blanca: the highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca is part of the spectacular Andes that form the spine of South America. A mecca for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, the region boasts over 50 peaks that exceed 15,000 feet, 700 glaciers, and 300 lakes.

Let's climb Nevado Mateo in just one day. It is one of the amazing ice-capped peaks of the famous Cordillera Blanca. The total altitude of Nevado Mateo is 5,150 meters, and its ascent is considered technically easy. That way, it can perfectly work as your first climbing experience since you won't need any technical skill.

However, keep in mind that, like any mountaineering ascent, the climb implies some risks that should not be taken lightly. That is why it is always mandatory, especially for beginners, to do it with a certified mountain guide. I can therefore guarantee that you will enjoy this experience safely.

For better acclimatization and performance in the ascent, we will start the trip with a tour to Nevado Pastoruri. On the way back, after reaching the top of Nevado Mateo, we will visit the Cancaraca Lagoon, crossing the Punta Olímpica tunnel. Finally, we will taste a delicious ice cream in Carhuaz.

This one-day ascent can also be a preparation for bigger goals in the area. For example, this 3-day trek in the Quilcayhuanca Valley that I am leading.

Logistics