6-Day Alpamayo Climb in Cordillera Blanca via Directa Francesa

Huaraz (3100 m) - Caraz (2200 m) - Cashapampa (2970 m) - Llamacoral (3760 m).
(Driving time: 3 hours / trek time: 4 hours uphill)

• Departure from Huaraz at 7:00 am, travelling along Callejón de Huaylas to Caraz.

• Continue on a dirt road to Cashapampa village at 2900 m, where you will meet the donkey drivers.

• From the village, the climbing gear will be transported by donkeys to the Llamacoral campsite.

Overnight camp at Llamacoral.

Llamacoral (3760 m) - Alpamayo Base Camp (4330 m).
(Trek time: 5 hours uphill)

• After breakfast at 8:00 am, walk up along Quebrada Santa Cruz.

• On the way, pass two beautiful glacier lakes until Quisuar.

• Trek through several switchbacks to Base Camp at 4300 m.

Overnight at Alpamayo Base Camp.

Alpamayo Base Camp (4300 m) - Moraine Camp (4900 m) - Alpamayo High Camp (5400 m).
(Climbing time: 8 hours ascent)

• Start walking up the steep path with the porters' help and reach Moraine Camp at 4900 m.

• Put on the climbing gear and tools, then continue up towards High Camp over the glacier with the porters' support.

• The high camp is located on the high pass between Alpamayo and Quitaraju.

• In the afternoon, enjoy the gorgeous west wall of Mount Alpamayo with a spectacular sunset.

Overnight at Alpamayo High Camp.

Alpamayo High Camp (5400 m) - Alpamayo summit (5947 m) - High Camp (5400 m).
(Climbing time: 14 hours ascent and descent)

• Rise early at 1:00 am and cross the glacier between camp and the bergschrund at the base of the Southwest Face.

• Climb the huge fluted ice wall of the Directa Frances route, with 500 m of ice wall and 60°-70° pitches.

• Reach the top and take in the most spectacular views of glacier lakes and several snow-capped peaks around you, including Huandoy, Pisco, Santa Cruz, Artesonraju, Pirámide Garcilazo, the Pucajircas group, Taulliraju, and Huascaran.

• Descend by the same route with rappels until High Camp.

Overnight at Alpamayo High Camp.

Alpamayo High Camp (5400 m) - Alpamayo Base Camp (4300 m).
(Climbing time: 6 hours descent)

• Descend with two rappels, then retrace the route towards Base Camp.

Overnight at Alpamayo Base Camp.

Alpamayo Base Camp (4300 m) - Cashapampa (2970 m) - Huaraz.
(Trek time: 7 hours downhill)

• Hike down through the Santa Cruz Valley to Cashapampa village at 2970 m, where private transport will be waiting to drive back to Huaraz.