Tehran, Golestan Palace and the National Museum
Your guide meets you inside the terminal at Imam Khomeini International, and the country starts immediately. First is Golestan Palace, the Qajar dynasty's mirrored, tiled, gloriously excessive seat of power and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the Peacock Throne once sat and Iran's first photographs were developed.
Then continue to the National Museum of Iran, the oldest and richest in the country, for a through-line from Elam and Persepolis to the Islamic centuries. If the light holds, you will also see the Gate of the National Garden and the Foreign Ministry palaces before finishing in the Grand Bazaar, ten kilometres of covered lane where Tehran actually happens. Overnight in Tehran.