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The journey
Mountaineering to both summits of Elbrus is an adventure worthy of strong climbers. This 9-day program combines acclimatization hikes in the Baksan Valley with a summit push to Mount Elbrus's West summit (5642 m) and East summit (5621 m). Along the way, you will hike to Cheget, Maid's Braids Waterfall, the observatory, and Pastukhov's Rocks, then move up to the huts for final preparations. For climbers who want to see everything at once, this journey offers the rare chance to stand on both of Elbrus's summits.
At a glance
Day by day
Land at Mineralnye Vody airport, preferably before 3 PM.
Take a 200 km (3-hour) ride to the hotel, situated at the beginning of the 100 km Baksan Valley, almost on the slope of Mt. Elbrus.
Meet the guide and have dinner together.
Embark on a morning acclimatization hike to Cheget.
Go for a morning acclimatization hike to Maid's Braids Waterfall (at 2700 m) and further on to the observatory (at 3100 m).
Take a lift to the refuge and get settled there.
After a snack, make an acclimatization hike to an elevation of 4400 m, up to the end of the ridge.
Overnight stay in the huts.
Embark on an acclimatization hike to Pastukhov's Rocks (at 4700 m).
Rest day. Final preparations for summiting Elbrus.
Climb Mount Elbrus's West summit (5642 m) and East summit (5621 m). This succession of summits can be changed with the guide's and other group members' consent. The day begins with an early start (at 2-4 AM). It is possible to use a Snowcat. The proportion of Russian guides to clients is strictly 1:3.
Reserve day. Descent to the hotel.
Transfer from Terskol to the airport at 7 AM, so plan your flight with this in mind.
There will probably be some time for a walk in Pyatigorsk after you reach the airport and leave your luggage there.
On your own, you can also visit the well-known Russian poet Lermontov's duel site.
The route
The fine print
Mountain guides: one leading Russian guide for the Elbrus South to North traverse program and several assistants for the summiting day, with a strict proportion of one guide per three climbers. This means that if there are four clients in a group, there will be two guides for them. There is no limitation on summit attempts for the group. However, if part of the group reaches the summit while some members fail to do so, summiting is considered successful, and any additional attempts are made for an additional payment.
Services of a cook.
Hotel accommodation in double and triple rooms. Duration of stay depends on the schedule.
Accommodation in huts. Duration of stay depends on the Elbrus climbing schedule.
All transfers mentioned in the itinerary (including lifts), from and to the airport/station.
Meals three times a day throughout the trip: dinner on the first day and breakfast on the last day.
All required permits and registrations.
Equipment for the group (ropes, ice screws, radios, first aid set, satellite navigators/GPS).
Snowcat on summiting day
Single accommodation
Personal equipment
Any deviations from the original schedule.
Climbing both Elbrus summits appeals to those who want to complete every challenge or see as much of the world as possible.
The East and West summits differ significantly and offer distinct views.
Do not overestimate yourself: after reaching one summit, few climbers have the mental and physical energy to go for the other immediately.
Most climbers focus on getting back to the refuge quickly for hot soup and the internet.
It makes more sense to spend an extra 2-3 hours to climb the other summit from the Saddle (about 300 m of altitude gain) than from the refuge (about 2000 m away).
This approach helps you avoid the feeling of an understated accomplishment.
Logistics
Your 9 days finish where they began, in Hotel.
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