I spent ten great days with Thulfgar. He is a young and dynamic person, very pleasant to travel with. Thulfgar is knowledgable about history and culture of his country and leads you in an interesting way to places that we visited. He is also a great organizer. Indeed, whenever we had trouble entering a site or pass some more difficult obstacles, his capacity to persuade and his ability to contact responsible people made the travel much easier - this a great advantage in a country that only opens up to tourism and where bureacracy and corruption are still very high. His personal contacts with many Iraqis all over the country also made it possible for us to stay in places where there were no hotels, while the local inhabitants were often our own guides on less visited paths. My travel plan was not obvious at first sight but the above qualities of Thulfgar made it all possible and we had a very rewarding time.