I highly recommend Gulzat! She was very helpful in setting up my tour, hiring a driver, and booking a wonderful guesthouse (replete with delicious meals of plov, manti, and baursaki) in the village of Saty. The driver, Selkhan, was very nice, conversationable, and knowledgeable, and although he did not hike with me himself at Charyn Canyon, Kolsay Lake, and Kaindy Lake, he was very helpful in directing me where to go. I am learning Russian, so it was very helpful to simply chat in Russian the entire trip. He even talked with a family group from Atyrau, who then agreed to let me tag along on the hike up to Kaindy with them. All in all, if you are looking for a loosely structured, flexible tour and only need a driver and a place to stay, then Gulzat is your person!