| 6 mins read
By Joseph Francis
Spread out over seven hills, just like one of Europe’s other great and historical capitals (I’m looking at you, Rome), Lisbon commands the meanders of the River Tagus right on the western cusp of the continental mainland. Pre-dating the likes of London and Paris, this metropolis of Moorish arches and glowing red-tiled roofs is one of the oldest on the planet; a palimpsest of history that still echoes with the footsteps of Celts, Caesars and Reconquista knights alike. But despite its age, the historic kernel of this town, along with the various districts that cluster around the Tagus banks, remains eminently walkable, allowing travellers to explore its hidden sights and totemic landmarks all on their own, with or without the assistance of a bona fide Lisbon tour guide. Here is a look at four of the top walking routes and tours Lisbon has to offer…
An introduction to Lisbon’s ancient centre (3 hours)
This walk is intended as a broad and pleasant introduction to Lisbon’s culture and history. It takes walkers through the very heart of the capital, along tree-lined boulevards, up steep, café-peppered hills and past some of the most fascinating museums and institutions in town. The walk begins at the bustling intersection of Largo do Rato, continuing on to the leafy hilltop square of Principe Real (where travellers will discover the Lisbon Botanical Gardens). After this soothing start, the route descends down Rua São Pedro de Alcântara, where the marble facades of the Church of Sao Roque beckon on the left and countless cafes, their interiors dressed in bright blue azulejos tiles, linger on the sidewalks. From here it’s just a short walk to the north-east to find the Palácio Foz – one of Lisbon’s most totemic sights.
After wondering at the majesty of this baroque build on Restauradores Square, visitors can check out the wide and tree-dotted Avenida da Liberdade, complete with the exquisite fountains of Malaquias Ferreira Leal. From here, walkers move south to the striped square of Rossio – arguably the buzzing heart of the city, where cafes spill out onto the streets and Lisbon tour guide groups gawp at the elegant façade of the train station. Towards the end of the walk, head over to the Moorish rises of the São Jorge Castle, before hitting the shopping streets of Baixa and the banks of the Tagus River – a fine spot to settle in for lunch and some well-earned refreshments.
Sunset viewing and evening walk (3 hours)
Many a Portugal travel guide book now recommends heading out to see Lisbon as the sun sets, when the dying light of the day casts a magenta and orange shade over the roofs of the Baixa, and the Moorish crenulations of the São Jorge Castle glow a deep and mysterious red. This tour offers just that, taking travellers up to the tip of one of Lisbon’s most famous hills to survey the sunset in all its glory.
The journey starts with travellers meeting their Lisbon travel guide and fellow sunset seekers in the Praça dos Restauradores. From here, groups stroll past the Casa Alentejo, where the kitchens churn out fine reproductions of regional Portuguese cuisine (but more of that later!), and onto one of Lisbon’s rattling old tram lines. Alighting at the iconic Our Lady of the Hills viewpoint, which commands sweeping panoramas of the cityscape, including the formidable bulwarks of São Jorge, the tips of the Cathedral and the meandering Tagus as it flows towards the Atlantic, visitors can witness one of the top views in the town here. After a pit stop for a refreshing beer as the sun dips below the horizon, travellers descend into the tight-knit streets and alleyways that form the ancient Alfama district. Here, lively taverns packed with locals tick over to the mellifluous tunes of traditional Fado music, making it a fine place to end the day with a Portuguese green wine or two!
A culinary adventure through Lisbon (3.5 hours)
From flavour-packed cold soups to sprawling platters of Atlantic seafood, cebolada-doused chicken and stacked francesinha sandwiches, the latter courtesy Porto in the north, Portuguese cuisine rarely fails to tingle those taste buds. That’s probably why many a Portugal tour guide now offers culinary walking tours through the capital, affording visitors the chance to sample the cream of the country’s kitchen in just a couple of hours.
The tasting tour begins in the colourful terraces of the Mouraria district, where aromatic eateries hide behind walls of bright blue azulejos and the scents of home cooking issues from the upper windows. First up on the menu is a classic Iberian bakery, which showcases gritty Portuguese coffee and some of the capital’s trademark pastries. Then, it’s on to the streets around Carmo Square, where the buttresses of the famous Carmo Convent cast their shadows over the alleyways below. A small delicatessen here offers tasters a sampling of locally-sourced marmalade, jams, breads and cheeses, all of which can be devoured while taking in the splendid views of the São Jorge Castle hill and the Tagus from the top of the Santa Justa Lift. Finally, walkers head to the river banks, where the smell of brackish river water signals the sea and - more importantly - seafood. Across in Almada is where the journey ends though, in a flurry of vinho verde (a regional green wine) and perfectly-cooked scabbardfish, not to mention some fine broadsides of the city from the southern banks of the river!
A taste of the noir on a Lisbon spy tour (2-3 hours)
Taking visitors back to the days when Lisbon remained one of the last vestiges of diplomacy in Europe during the tumultuous conflicts of the Second World War, the much-acclaimed Spy tour offers a glimpse at the city’s shadowy, shadier side. The route begins on the Praça do Comércio, before heading off to case out some of the best-known “spy hotels” in the city. This is where allied and axis confidants would meet and discuss terms between the art deco coffee shops. Spy tour guides also reveal the hottest shopping and fashion boutiques of that in the city during the war, and give an idea of what life was like in Lisbon during the fateful years, all whilst unravelling the mysterious tales of figures like Sousa Mendes and the heroic double agent Joan Pujol Garcia, better known as Garbo.
Joseph ‘Rich’ Francis is a freelance travel writer who has travelled extensively in Asia and Europe. He particularly enjoys the jazz bars of Poland, the ski slopes of Austria and the beaches and cities of India.
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