Clouds hanging over misty, sharp slopes and the chilling snow breeze at the peak make for a true conqueror’s quest. Trekking to the highest summit in Papua New Guinea is a tough but rewarding adventure.
I was engaged as a tour guide for three professional Australian trekkers who had a long-standing desire to reach the summit of Mt. Wilhelm. Their goal was not just to complete the trek but to experience the excitement and challenge of this remarkable journey.
The Journey Begins
Our adventure began in Goroka on a dazzling Sunday afternoon. I picked up my Australian friends from Goroka Airport, and we set off on our journey at around 11:00 AM, surrounded by stunning mountain scenery. We climbed the Daulo Pass to an elevation of 2,000 meters, passing through breathtaking landscapes that remain largely undiscovered in the Pacific.
In the late afternoon, we arrived at Kundiawa Town before driving north on the newly sealed 10 km road through the Tokma Limestone Range. We passed through the Gembogl Gorge, nestled between towering mountain ranges. Below us, the famous Simbu River rushed through the valley, its waters crashing against the rock walls before eventually flowing into the Purari River delta.
Our drive was challenging but exciting, made possible by our fully equipped, three-month-old Mitsubishi Pajero 4WD. At several points, we had to switch to four-wheel drive to navigate the muddy and steep terrain. This journey proved that the Pajero is truly built for outdoor adventures.
Finally, we arrived at Betty’s Lodge in Kekl, located 1,000 meters above sea level and 100 km from Goroka Town. After a long, rugged drive, we settled in for the night at the lodge.
Trekking to Lake Piunde Yaundo
Early the next morning, we assembled our guides and porters, Willie Struck and Arnold Tai, both from a nearby village. We packed our trekking gear and rations before setting off at 8:30 AM.
The trek began through dense, high-altitude forests filled with alpine orchids and the distant calls of sicklebills. The towering trees provided a natural canopy, filtering the sunlight and keeping the air pleasantly warm. After a 1,000-meter ascent, we reached the entrance to Mt. Wilhelm National Park, once a recognized and renowned trekking site.
After a short rest, we continued for another 3 km through alpine savanna grasslands. The panoramic view was breathtaking—valleys stretched out before us like a city skyline, with no clouds in sight. The stunning Bismarck Range extended toward the eastern horizon, enclosing the vast Gembogl Gorge.
As we neared our campsite, the sound of a crystal-clear waterfall welcomed us. The thunderous rush of water signaled our arrival at Lake Piunde Yaundo, where we would spend the night.
A Night at Lake Piunde Yaundo
Lake Piunde Yaundo is a pristine, glacial lake surrounded by rugged rocks and lush vegetation. Schools of energetic trout swam near the surface, while wild ducks gracefully rowed toward the northern bay. Orchids bloomed near the hut, their vibrant colors and fragrant aromas enhancing the beauty of the lakeside.
That night, we enjoyed a delicious dinner of fried chicken, peas, and locally sourced hot coffee, which warmed us against the cool mountain air.
Summit Ascent: Reaching the Top of Papua New Guinea
At 2:00 AM, we began our climb toward the summit, ascending 2,300 feet in near darkness. As the first rays of sunlight emerged from the Madang coast, we were blessed with clear skies—no rain, no clouds, just an incredible view.
Upon reaching Christopher McDonnell’s Corner, at an altitude of 3,000 feet, the scenery became even more spectacular. From here, we could see the Finisterre Range in Madang and the Jimi Valley, while far below, the lights of the famous Madang Kalibobo Lighthouse flickered. At first, we mistook it for a passing vessel, but soon realized it was the lighthouse beacon cutting through the early morning mist.
As we neared the summit, we could see the rock walls surrounding the peak of Mt. Wilhelm. Finally, after a challenging final ascent, we reached the summit pole.
A Moment of Triumph
My two Australian friends were overjoyed. Laughter and cheers filled the air as they celebrated their long-awaited achievement. Their trip to Papua New Guinea had been a true adventure, filled with challenges and breathtaking landscapes. Having already trekked the World War II Kokoda Trail, they had now conquered Mt. Wilhelm (4,509 meters/14,793 feet). They even promised to return to climb Mt. Giluwe, the second-highest mountain in Papua New Guinea.
From the summit, we could hear the distant thunderous wind howling through the valleys, echoing between the towering peaks of the Gembogl Gorge. It was a surreal and unforgettable moment.
After a celebratory lunch at the summit, we made our way back down to Lake Piunde Yaundo, where a hot cup of coffee awaited us. After packing our gear, we continued our descent to Betty’s Lodge.
Returning to Betty’s Lodge
We arrived at Betty’s Lodge just in time to escape the afternoon downpour. Our host, Betty Higgins, welcomed us with a mouthwatering dinner of freshly farmed trout, gourmet soups, and local vegetables. Every trekker should experience this delicious meal after such an exhausting adventure!
About Mt. Wilhelm
Mt. Wilhelm stands at 4,509 meters (14,793 feet) and is best accessed from Simbu Province. The weather is unpredictable, with frequent midday rainfall and cool breezes at the summit.
For trekkers planning the journey, here are some essential items to bring:
✅ Sleeping bag
✅ First aid kit
✅ Warm clothing (neck warmer, wool hat, light jacket)
✅ Raincoat
✅ Trekking boots
✅ Torch with extra batteries
There are several good guesthouses at Kegesuglo Transit Site, and PMVs (public motor vehicles) are available from Kundiawa Town to Kegesuglo via the famous Gembogl Gorge.
Plan Your Trek to Mt. Wilhelm
The author is a full-time tour guide and lives at the foot of Mt. Wilhelm, organizing daily treks to the summit.