Tour Guide, Kathmandu, Nepal
| 9 mins read
Last year (July 2013) I attended the wedding of Jeff Laycock to Donna, along with several other golf club members.
My wife and I were having a drink, before the ceremony, with Keith Blunt, Dave Love and his wife Deb. During the conversation Keith said to Dave, “you haven’t asked me how my trip to Mt Everest base camp went last year” (March 2012). Dave replied, “I didn’t know about it please tell me.”
Keith explained how he decided to turn back just before reaching base camp as his travelling companion, club member John Alchin, was suffering from high altitude sickness. They had agreed both should return if one got sick.
Keith stated that he wanted to return and complete the trek but didn’t know of anyone that would go with him. My ears pricked up as I had always wanted to go trekking in the foothills of Nepal, never even thinking of Everest! A few minutes later I offered to go with Keith and then Dave also said he would go. The seed was sown!
A few days later after the three of us had established it wasn’t just the alcohol talking we got together and started to plan the adventure. Keith was the go to man for information because he had been before, Dave was appointed to be in charge of our training plans and I took on the role of coordinating the travel itinerary.
We decided to arrive in Nepal on the 19th May 2014 travelling with Malaysia Airlines! for both legs, transiting through Kuala Lumpur to Kathmandu before taking the short flight to Lukla, the most dangerous airport in the world, to begin the trek. Incidentally we would be on the trek for the 61st anniversary of the first successful summit climb (Hillary/Tensing) 29th May. Return to Perth was 4th June.
This time of the year was recommended as ideal for trekking!
I started “training” the week before Christmas with gradually increasing reps, over the next five months, lunges/squats for the legs and push ups to strengthen the core. The three of us also regularly went on 1-2hr walks around the “foothills” of Scarborough, Doubleview, Edgewater and Kalamunda.
Nothing could have prepared us for what we encountered on the foothills of Everest!
We duly arrived in Kathmandu without incident met Mountain Hawk director Prem and his assistants Badri, Ming and Prakash. Prem and Ming were coming on the trek with us together with three other trekkers in their twenties from the UK. Ming is 22 and would turn out to be a possible lifesaver for Dave and myself. We also had three porters to carry most of our gear.
On the morning of 20th May we were lucky enough to only wait for a short time for the 30 min flight from Kathmandu alt 1400m to Lukla alt 2840m sometimes bad weather in the mountains delay take off for hours. We landed safely at 6.30am but at one stage we were flying in cloud along a valley when all around were mountain peaks higher than us! Eventually the aircraft emerged and we could then see the runway.
After breakfast we started the first leg, an 8kms 4hr up and down trek following a river valley to Phakding tea house alt 2610m. The weather was fine in the high teens.
Next morning 21st May we started a killer 14kms 8hr trek to Namche Bazaar alt 3440m. Weather fine but getting cooler. I stopped writing my diary and think my altitude sickness was kicking in with a slight headache.
22nd May we had a 3hr 8kms return trek to alt 3730m just for fun, to acclimatise! Stayed in Namche.
23rd May 6hr trek to Tengboche Monastery alt 3860m torture! In the morning my eyes had puffed up, another early sign of altitude sickness. This went away after a couple of hours
24th May 7hr trek to Dingboche alt 4350m torture! More puffy eyes, again went away.
25th May 5hr trek to Chhukung alt 4710m and back to Dinboche to acclimatise, torture!
26th May 7hr trek to Lobuche alt 4920m started to snow, more torture!
27th May 9hr trek to Gorak Shep alt 5140m and Everest base camp 5364m in deep snow! We headed off at 6.30am. Dave and Ming walking with me as I had progressively been getting slower as the altitude increased, feeling strong Keith had gone ahead to reach his goal this time. Dave and I were determined to reach base camp; we pushed ourselves to the limit. Around 2pm. at an alt of 5300m, past the old base camp and probably 2hrs away from our goal, I made the call to stop and return to Gorak Shep. Several factors combined for me to make this decision. I did not want to prevent Dave from achieving his goal, my physical condition was not good, the weather was extreme and we were going to run out of daylight for the return to Gorak Shep.
I waited for returning others to help me back. At one stage one of the porters who would have weighed 60kgs tied me; 80kgs onto his back and carried me down a steep icy track. This lasted about 10 mins. I didn’t fancy a face plant over his head and anyway my testicles were being painfully reshaped! The rest of the journey I was supported by Prem and a porter. We arrived around 4pm. Keith had reached base camp and made it back a little earlier. Darkness fell around 6.30pm.no sign of Dave. Everyone was worried. Dave and Ming finally returned at 8.30pm with the aid of torches. Dave had been trekking in extreme conditions for 14hrs! If I had carried on we would have been lucky to get back by 10.30pm. (If at all)
We all went to bed extra early. I was sharing a room with Keith, during the night my lungs started to gurgle, like percolating coffee. Keith reported to our tour leader Prem around 4am. A decision was made to transport me back to Kathmandu, by helicopter, the next day. Dave volunteered to accompany me.
28th May. Overnight more snow had fallen and we awoke to a soft 2-3 foot cover over the rocks and boulders along the steep and narrow trekking path. It was still snowing, visibility was not good, and the mountain rescue helicopter was unable to land at Gorak Shep!
Around 8.30 am it was decided to put me on a horse and take me to Lobuche where the helicopter could safely land. I had only been on a horse once before and I’m sure the horse sensed this. Twice during the first few mins I slid slowly sideways off the horse onto the snow as it stumbled one way and I went the other. We returned to camp and another horse was introduced to me. I gradually worked out how to stay on this one; the survival instinct had kicked in, and somehow after 4hrs arrived at the Lobuche helipad. Dave was walking about 20 mins behind unable to keep up with the horse. After a few mins the helicopter arrived, I was helped into it and the pilot took off. He was worried about a change in the weather conditions so did not wait for Dave.
So I had a “wonderful” high altitude mountain helicopter ride back to Lukla (50mins) and then back to Kathmandu (60mins) arriving around 5pm. Badri had been waiting for me for 5hrs! An ambulance took me to hospital where I spent 3 days recovering and another day in the hotel until Keith and Dave returned. Badri was magnificent keeping me company.
In a way I got the easy way out as Keith and Dave had to walk back to Lukla, 80kms in 4 days over rocky up and down terrain. After waiting 2 days, due to poor weather preventing planes landing at Lukla, they decided to hire a helicopter for the flight back to Kathmandu. During the 160ms 12 day trek Keith lost 6kgs and Dave lost 4kgs both were physically and mentally exhausted. I weighed the same but lost 3kgs during the first week back in Perth due to a stomach upset.
For those of you medically inclined. My oxygen saturation level had dropped to 65% (below 90% is cause for concern) my lungs were 50% full of fluid, infection up to the scapula with extensive wheezes. My heart rate was 104/min with a fever of 100f. The transfer of carbon dioxide and oxygen in my lungs was compromised. In particular this caused extreme pain and weakness in my thighs preventing me from walking for more than a few mins without rest.
The diagnosis was ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, HIGH ALTITUDE PULMONARY EDEMA.
The Nepalese doctors were “quite worried” when I declared my medical history from 18 months before, heart attack and stent.
Things to consider if you are thinking about trekking to Everest base camp:-
The weather can be extreme any time of the year.
For at least a week, no showering, meat or alcohol.
Sleeping in a bag, wearing thermals, beanie and gloves.
Freezing cold bedrooms, paper thin walls, no heating, windows open for extra oxygen.
No electricity/lights at night. Use a head band torch whilst peeing.
Very ordinary toilet facilities.
In Summary am I glad I went? Yes.
The people at Mountain Hawk were wonderful and I did see the summit of Mt Everest!
Would I go again? No
The three of us agreed it was by far the toughest thing we’ve ever achieved.
Thanks Keith and Dave for the roles you played in saving my life. We have a lasting bond.
For anybody still contemplating this trek, buy me a beer and we’ll have a serious chat!
Next holiday, THE COOK ISLANDS!
(By Graham Woodard)