Dong Hoi is probably best known as the onetime flashpoint between American, Northern People's Army and Vietcong forces in the wars of the 1950s, 60s and 70s. Sat just on the edge of the infamous DMZ, the town was battered by both US guns and countless sieges and virtually razed to the dust. Today the 17^th century Quang Binh gate and the ruins of the Tam Toa Church are the only standing remnants of that time. Fast forward nearly four decades, and the place has done a volte-face. Sandy banks rise to meet a clean and compact centre, where cycle paths whizz past cool cafes and pho stalls bubble on the pavements. Sand dunes and seaside bars line Nhat Le beach, while Bai Da and the unusual rock formations at Bao Ninh are a popular draw as well. The biggest attraction here though, is the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, where Dong Hoi tour guides will introduce you to the some of the most spectacular caves and breath-taking karsts.