9 Days Glacier tour itinerary for Mount Elbrus: Scale Heights Of Two Summits On Elbrus
Mountaineering to two summits of Elbrus is an adventure worthy of most strong climbers. Never think about what you didn't see - see everything at once!
climb to the observatory 3100m
Embark on a morning acclimatization hike to Cheget.
Go for a morning acclimatization hike to Maid’s Braids Waterfall (at 2700 m) and further on, to the observatory (at 3100 m).
move to the huts
Take a lift to the refuge and setting up there.
After a snack, making an acclimatization hike to an elevation of 4400 m, till the end of the ridge.
Overnight stay in the huts.
Embark on an acclimatization hike to Pastukhov’s Rocks (at 4700 m).
Rest day. Final preparations for summiting Elbrus.
Climb Mount Elbrus’s West summit (5642m) and East summit (5621m). This succession of summits can be changed with the guide’s and other group members' consent. The day begins with an early start (at 2–4 AM). It is possible to use a Snowcat. The proportion of Russian guides and clients is strictly 1:3.
Reserve day. Descent to hotel.
Transfer from Terskol
Mountain guides: one leading Russian guide for the program of Elbrus South to North traverse and several assistants for the day of summiting, with a strict proportion of one guide per three climbers. This means that if there are four clients in a group, there will be two guides for them. We have no limitation of attempts for the group to summit. However, if part of the group made it to the summit while some members failed to, summiting is considered successful, and any additional attempts are made for additional payment.
Services of a cook.
Hotel with accommodation in double and triple rooms. Duration of stay depends on the schedule.
Accommodation in huts. Duration of stay depends on the schedule of Elbrus climb.
All transfers mentioned in the itinerary (including lifts) – from and to airport/station.
Meals three times a day throughout the trip. Dinner on the first day, breakfast – on the last.
All required permits and registrations.
Equipment for the group (ropes, ice screws, radios, first aid set, satellite navigators/GPS).
Snowcat on summiting day
Any deviations to the original schedule.
An Elbrus climb to both of its summits is usually preferred by people who strive to accomplish all their endeavors in order to eliminate any understatement, or by people eager to experience as much of the world as possible. Indeed, East and West summits of Elbrus differ substantially, and both of them offer quite different views from their tops. However, this is not a reason to overestimate oneself: standing on one of the summits’ top rare climbers can find psychological and physical recourses to venture for the other summit right away. Most climbers think only about getting back to the refuge as soon as possible to get some hot soup and the internet. Anyway, it makes more sense to spend another 2–3 hours to climb the other summit right away, from the Saddle (with an altitude gain of as little as 300 m) than from the refuge at the distance of 2000m. This way you will avoid the feeling of understated accomplishment.
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