A chaotic bustling commerce hub that bursts at the seams with more than one million people, Lilongwe sits smack in the centre of s-shaped Malawi, almost equidistance between the border with Mozambique and the banks of colossal Lake Malawi in the east. A city of two halves, modern Lilongwe is a grid of criss-crossing lanes, ceaseless traffic, and low-rise and high-rise buildings housing governmental offices, embassies and light industry alike. The older side of town holds most of the cultural cards, coming complete with a sprawling old marketplace where sellers sit cross-legged over their emporiums of multi-coloured fruit with unpronounceable names, carved trinkets and curious arts and crafts. There is also something of a lively night scene around, which sees the bars of Devil Street erupt at night with a (not-so-) healthy dousing of local Malawian gin and vodka. And when the hustle of town gets just a little too much, Lilongwe tour guides can help visitors escape to the city’s wildlife centre for a spell, where baboons swing between the tree boughs.