The incense-twisting bazaars and turquoise-tipped madrassahs of Zanjan huddle in the shadow of the Qaflankuh Mountain Range. A steppingstone to the off-the-beaten wonders of Western Iran and the less-trodden shores of the Caspian Sea, the city's not on many travel itineraries of erstwhile Persia. But it should be.

It should be for the gorgeous rises of the UNESCO-tagged Soltaniye Dome. Dating all the way back to the 1300s, that handsome feat of arabesque architecture is thought to have defined rules for the building of Muslim cupolas. It should be for the fascinating rises of the Behestan Castle, a soaring bluff where troglodyte cave homes carve through the red rocks. It should be because it's a gateway to the mysterious Zoroastrian relics of Azar Goshnasp, another World Heritage Site that oozes ancient Parthian character.

Zanjan tour guides can also take you through buzzing markets where handmade sandals mingle with Persian daggers in the stalls, teahouses scented with mint beckon in the alcoves, and beautiful Qajar buildings loom on all sides. It's all perfect for a glimpse of Iran's less-visited half.