Encompassed by the dusty, wind-swept ridges of the Zagros Mountains, Isfahan has all the trappings of a metropolis, characterised by heavy industry and traffic jams emphasising its emergence as Iran’s third largest city. Yet look closer, and discover an enchanting historical treasure trove of decorated mosque domes, filigreed arabesque palaces, sprawling Persian squares, Ottoman bathhouses and fascinating marketplaces, all interspersed with garden oases blooming in greenery from the edges of the Zayandeh rud River.

This is a city raised by the shaping influences of countless cultures and creeds—ranging from ancient Persians to settlers from the Caucasus and Russia. Consequently, it now boasts one of the greatest ranges of architectural wonders in Iraq, with Isfahan tour guides espousing a rather impressive list of “must sees”, from the colossal, UNESCO-attested Naqsh-e Jahan Square with its wealth of Safavid frontispieces (most notably the great Imam Mosque), the eye-popping arabesque palaces of Ali Qapu, to the various historical madrasas that pepper the ancient centre. And when you’re done wandering over the exquisite apses of the 17^th century Khajou Bridge, or between the numerous colonnades of the Chehel Sutun, remember to tick off your list as you kick back at one of the city’s many parks and gardens.