Ahvaz might not get the same headlines as Tehran or Qom, but for a glimpse at a workaday Iranian city with a few traveller charms on the side, this city probably can't be beaten. You will need to beware of the severe air pollution and check FCO guidelines before making visits to this part of the country. If you do visit, then the bazaars along Taleqani Street are the place to begin. Ahvaz tour guides can lead you through local sellers there, showcasing fresh citrus fruits, pulses, herbs and exotic spices just like back in the days of the Old Silk Road. Along the riverfront of the Karun is where people gather in the evenings, to chat and watch the light die across the meanders. There are boat rentals for making ad hoc sailing trips across the water, too. Apart from all that, Ahvaz remains a prime gateway to the southwestern extremities of Iran. They encompass the vast reserves of the Shadegan Wildlife Refuge and its glimmering ponds, eventually spilling into the Persian Gulf. You can make a pitstop in town before heading in that direction, for bird spotting and intrepid boat trips and the like.