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Rolling from the soaring heights of the Citadelle la Ferrière to the shimmering beachfronts of the northern departments, the recently-rebuilt Port-au-Prince capital and post-colonial fortresses of Cap-Haitien, Haiti promises something of a more authentic and raw experience of the Caribbean than many of its touristic neighbours. Just take the earthy coffee depots and colourful homes of Jacmel in the south, or the aromatic Creole come jerk chicken stalls that bubble up on the city streets, offering an enticing mixture of French, European, Arawak and South American flavours. This less-visited half of Hispaniola Island has worked hard to recover from the devastation caused by the 2010 earthquake, and consequently has now started to court the touristic crowd in earnest. Today the beach stretches of Île à Vache are on the up with shiny new all-inclusive hotels, while Port Salut beckons with secluded coves and BBQ eateries. Along with it’s vibrant history, culture and people, Haiti tour guides also proudly showcase some of the region’s more edgy and adventurous gems, going from the wilderness jungles of Tortuga Island to the primeval reaches of the Macaya National Park’s rainforests.