Deep in the dusty folds of the Gegham Mountains, between rock-ribbed cliffs and high plateaux, the ancient settlement of Garni sits, clinging to the ridges. The area was first inhabited way back in the 3rd millennium BC. Tribal groups noted its natural defences and tactical access to the gushing waters of the River Azat, raising rudimentary forts and houses on the hillsides. Then came a series of Armenian royal dynasties, bringing even more formidable citadels and temple complexes with them. The piece de resistance that all Garni tour guides will wax lyrical about is surely the Temple of Garni – a striking Pagan peristyle and the only of its kind still standing. Numerous ancient churches and ruins dot the landscape as well and are best explored walking. Cross a quaint 11th century bridge to start the trail to the Havurs Tat monastery, while a little east lies the 11th century Geghard monastery, carved out of solid stone on the mountainside. 

All around that rich heritage and culture is a region of carved canyons and high peaks; explore them at the Garni Gorge, where stacked rocks lurch overhead, or at the remote Khosrov Reserve, where juniper forests tumble into rose fields between ruined medieval monasteries.