Taitung is like a window onto the Taiwan before the tech revolution. Sat on a sliver of land where the mountains converge on the open ocean, it's a place where bobbing fishing skiffs mingle with old Japanese-style cottages, narrow lanes bustle with shellfish hawkers and ramshackle rows of apartments clamber over each other. Since Taitung has opted to cling so steadfastly to its traditional roots, one can encounter all sorts of ethnic and cultural nuances here. Temples shoulder above the streets, aboriginal cuisine by indigenous tribes promise distinct flavours, and haunting pre-historic burial sites abound at the Beinan Cultural Park – hailed by many as the most important dig in Taiwan.

As you wander the salt-smelling lanes and little squares, you'll discover plenty of boho cafes filled with art, along with independent galleries and public art shows. To escape into nature, Taitung tour guides often recommend a stroll down Mr Brown Road with a stopover at Dapo Lake, or a cycling trip on the famous Yufu path, or even better a jaunt to Green Island, where bubbling hot springs spill down from craggy volcanic ridges. Don’t miss the month-long hot air balloon festival should you plan a visit in the end of June.